Currently, there are a lot of hype and hoo-haa on ammonia-free permanent colors in the market now. So, what really is it all about of the so called; "Ammonia-Free" colors that still require to be mixed with Hydrogen peroxide in order to work? Doesn't it sounds suspicious? Ask yourself this simple question on why does ammonia free colors need hydrogen peroxide?
As we know, there are a lot of Ammonia-free colors in our industry that are acidic in pH and does not require to be mixed with any hydrogen peroxide or activator. In fact, these kind of ammonia-free colors are so convenient that it can be used directly out from the tube. Without ammonia in them, these colors cannot lift or change our natural melanin in human hair. These colors are meant for direct colors pigments depositing only, thus these range of colors do not stay long on the hair. The direct color pigments will be washed out excessively every time when the hair is being shampoo.
Let's get back to the so called "ammonia-free" colors. These so called "ammonia-free" colors that requires hydrogen peroxide to oxidize; contains Ethanolamine, also called 2-aminoethanol or monoethanolamine (often abbreviated as ETA or MEA).Ethanolamine is commonly called monoethanolamine or MEA. [Ethanolamine or Monoethanolamine is a clear, water-white, hygroscopic liquid with a mild ammoniacal odor. A chemical intermediate in the manufacture of cosmetics, surface-active agents, emulsifiers, pharmaceuticals, and plasticizing agents; a gas-scrubbing agent for the absorption and removal of H2S and CO2 from refinery and natural gas streams; carbon dioxide and ammonia manufacturing.]
MEA is almost odorless and does not produce a pungent smell as strong as an ammonia. When a color cream that contains ammonia is being squeezed out into a color bowl and mixed with a hydrogen peroxide, the emulsion starts to oxidize and ammonia is released and starts to vaporize, thus releasing the pungent smell that is choking. MEA does not have this effect of pungent smell when mixed with hydrogen peroxide and this led to end-users or even hairdressers to think that the colors that contains ammonia are more aggressive to the hair than colors that contains MEA. Traditional colors contains about 1-4%of ammonia, while so called "ammonia-free" colors contains almost 12% of MEA. MEA is more agressive on the hair than ammonia and usually color lines that uses MEA have the effect of the hair color "brown-out" after the colors fade.
In fact, some products uses Ammonium Hydroxide in their color line and try to pass off as ammonia free to hairdressers and end users. As a matter of fact, either we uses real ammonia free colors that does not need a developing agent or it's still better to stick to our traditional color that contains low ammonia. There are some color line that use as low as 1-3% of ammonia in their colors.
What I am trying to express is; As a professional hairdresser, it is our duty to educate ourselves and to truthfully advise our clients on their hairdressing needs. Do not be mislead by those big products company who try to blind our professionalism through some form of marketing works. We are professionals and we cannot afford to be ignorant. Stop supporting those product companies that lies to us; hairdressers.
Check out this link for more on "ammonia free" colors.. https://lorealinoa.wordpress.com
Check out this link for more on "ammonia free" colors.. https://lorealinoa.wordpress.com
